Spring 2010 New York Fashion Week

victoria traina

Proenza Schouler Goes Lady-Like — But With Tie Dye and Neon — for Spring 2011

>> After last season's school girl-inspired kicky mini skirts, thigh highs, and varsity jackets, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were ready to do "something a little more polished, maybe grown-up in a way, but our way," the latter explained.
Proenza Schouler Goes Lady-Like — But With Tie Dye and Neon — for Spring 2011

>> After last season's school girl-inspired kicky mini skirts, thigh highs, and varsity jackets, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were ready to do "something a little more polished, maybe grown-up in a way, but our way," the latter explained. “We’d gone as short as we could, and as body-conscious as we could . . . So we took all these feminine codes — the embroideries, the flowers — and mixed them up in our own way."

Welcome the pink tweedy suits, the salmon matte croc coat, the ladylike pumps — no platforms — and the lingerie done in collaboration with Jean Yu (who also worked with Rag & Bone this season), allowing for a little covering up, a novel thought in this season of sheer. Also a surprise: flats on the Proenza Schouler runway, in sandal and knee-high gladiator form. But it wouldn't be a Proenza collection of late without a little fluoro — and it came aplenty, in acid green, pink, orange, and cobalt. Textures were complex in this collection — the first few pieces to come out had what Cathy Horyn termed the texture of "a freshly clipped poodle; no, a cauliflower; no, finer!" — and the label's trademark tie dye was reimagined this time with the ancient form of Japanese shibori.

Interesting to note: Victoria Traina was indeed listed as creative consultant on this collection, and Theory's Andrew Rosen — who was rumored earlier this year to be circling an investment in Proenza — was front row, just as rumors resurface that Rosen is looking to buy the brand from European private equity fund Permira.

Crystal Renn Makes New York Fashion Week Appearance at Z Spoke

>> Crystal Renn has been embraced by Paris designers — Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier both picked her for their recent campaigns — so it was only a matter of time before she and her curves were welcomed stateside once again.
Crystal Renn Makes New York Fashion Week Appearance at Z Spoke

>> Crystal Renn has been embraced by Paris designers — Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier both picked her for their recent campaigns — so it was only a matter of time before she and her curves were welcomed stateside once again. The designer who takes the honor? Zac Posen, who sent Renn down the Z Spoke runway, marking her first appearance of the week. “I’m freaking out," she told People. "Zac is one of the ones you want. Zac, Calvin and Marc are the big three. I booked one of my three.”

In the Showroom: Nima Spring 2010

Since launching his namesake collection with Saks Fifth Avenue in the spring of 2007, Nima Taherzadeh has become known for elegantly detailed cocktail dresses and separates.
In the Showroom: Nima Spring 2010

Since launching his namesake collection with Saks Fifth Avenue in the spring of 2007, Nima Taherzadeh has become known for elegantly detailed cocktail dresses and separates.

When we visited the designer in his showroom shortly after Nima's runway debut during New York Fashion Week, Taherzadeh was preparing for a trunk show tour across the U.S. He told us the spring 2010 collection was very much inspired by the underwater photographs of Howard Schatz—hence the acid-hued prints on a belted mini dress and high-waisted skirt, the fluid zipper detailing on cropped jackets, and a single row of soft ruffles on a satin trench coat. See the complete spring collection below.

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler Go Urban Scuba for Spring 2010

>> Of all the shows this week, Jack McCollough's and Lazaro Hernandez's Proenza Schouler presentation had the most excitement and energy about it; Joe Zee agreed, calling it "one of the best this week."  We didn't know it at the time, but a piece from the collection actually debuted on Dasha Zhukova during the POP dinner last Friday.
Proenza Schouler Go Urban Scuba for Spring 2010

>> Of all the shows this week, Jack McCollough's and Lazaro Hernandez's Proenza Schouler presentation had the most excitement and energy about it; Joe Zee agreed, calling it "one of the best this week."  We didn't know it at the time, but a piece from the collection actually debuted on Dasha Zhukova during the POP dinner last Friday.

Tonight, the lights above flickered back and forth on the bottom floor of Milk Studios, and with three Trainas in the front row — Victoria, Vanessa, and Samantha — we got to see the full urban scuba collection, which seemed to be a continuation of their Tahiti-inspired resort 2010 collection. Neon printed minidresses mirrored the backs of tropical fish, cateye sunglasses had lifeguard-style reflective lenses, neon tops resembled long sleeve Under Armor, and tinsel and feathers fringed dresses.  One girl sported beachy green-tinged hair, another purple.  And of course the boys, known for their knack with accessories, didn't disappoint with rainbow-linked minibags and strappy toggle wedges.

Afterward, they told Fashion TV's Jeanne Baker they wanted to indulge in color this season, and edited out about half their potential looks from the show to leave people wanting more.

Anna Sui

>> Models Missing from the New York Runways: An Update —With only one more day of New York Fashion Week to go, a number of top models still haven't set foot on a catwalk.  Anja Rubik finally appeared at Michael Kors this morning — so did Carmen Kass and Jacquetta Wheeler — but Catherine McNeil — who is supposedly booked all through the New York shows on another job — Toni Garrn, Lara Stone, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, Sigrid Agren — who's rumored not to be doing any shows this season — Tanya Dziahileva, Raquel Zimmermann, and Georgina Stojiljkovic are all totally MIA.  In other modeling news, Jessica Stam joined the increasingly large number of models bleaching their hair — she debuted the new hue today at Anna Sui.

>> Models Missing from the New York Runways: An Update —With only one more day of New York Fashion Week to go, a number of top models still haven't set foot on a catwalk.  Anja Rubik finally appeared at Michael Kors this morning — so did Carmen Kass and Jacquetta Wheeler — but Catherine McNeil — who is supposedly booked all through the New York shows on another job — Toni Garrn, Lara Stone, Anna Maria Jagodzinska, Sigrid Agren — who's rumored not to be doing any shows this season — Tanya Dziahileva, Raquel Zimmermann, and Georgina Stojiljkovic are all totally MIA.  In other modeling news, Jessica Stam joined the increasingly large number of models bleaching their hair — she debuted the new hue today at Anna Sui. [Fashin]

Alberta Ferretti

Alberta Ferretti's Spring 2010 Philosophy: Light, Gauzy, and Full of Lips

>> Alberta Ferretti's Spring 2010 presentation was both upscale and democratic: waiters circulated with champagne and caviar, on the one hand, but everyone also had the chance to be a front rower — there were no seats but there was a four foot high or so runway, allowing guests to get up as close as they wanted to the walking models, concert-style.  The Italian contingent was out in full force — Anna Dello Russo in fiery Lanvin and nude pumps, Franca Sozzani — and the collection, full of fresh, gauzy, light minidresses had prints of eyes, butterflies, and lips — the last vaguely remniscent of Prada's iconic Spring 2000 lip print collection.
Alberta Ferretti's Spring 2010 Philosophy: Light, Gauzy, and Full of Lips

>> Alberta Ferretti's Spring 2010 presentation was both upscale and democratic: waiters circulated with champagne and caviar, on the one hand, but everyone also had the chance to be a front rower — there were no seats but there was a four foot high or so runway, allowing guests to get up as close as they wanted to the walking models, concert-style.  The Italian contingent was out in full force — Anna Dello Russo in fiery Lanvin and nude pumps, Franca Sozzani — and the collection, full of fresh, gauzy, light minidresses had prints of eyes, butterflies, and lips — the last vaguely remniscent of Prada's iconic Spring 2000 lip print collection.

Marc by Marc Jacobs

>> Low-to-No-Heels (Even the Kitten Heel) Getting Nods from Stylish Key Editors, Marc Jacobs for Spring 2010 —Various editors at Vogue have been rooting for less heel, more flat shoes since resort season, and this past week, at least two editors who love their heels have been going lower: Meredith Melling Burke pulled on knee-high black boots with maybe a half-inch heel, and Giovanna Battaglia chose, of all things, the kitten heel.

>> Low-to-No-Heels (Even the Kitten Heel) Getting Nods from Stylish Key Editors, Marc Jacobs for Spring 2010 —Various editors at Vogue have been rooting for less heel, more flat shoes since resort season, and this past week, at least two editors who love their heels have been going lower: Meredith Melling Burke pulled on knee-high black boots with maybe a half-inch heel, and Giovanna Battaglia chose, of all things, the kitten heel. Marc Jacobs, at both his mainline and Marc by Marc Jacobs (left), had no heels. Instead, both shows had flats with a slight platform. [Style.com, Style.com]

Christian Cota

See What Lauren Santo Domingo Is Supposedly Obsessed With at Christian Cota Spring 2010

>> Lauren Santo Domingo has been turning it out front row this week — from Phi leather pants to Balmain sandals — aside from that front-row smoke break at Alexander Wang which caused a stir according to The Daily, but she was also back to style Christian Cota's presentation for Spring 2010.  While waiting in line to view the presentation, we overheard one of Cota's publicists talking about how Santo Domingo was "obsessed" with the jewelry she paired with Cota's cocktail dresses; Style.com also just published a piece about how Cota's "show stylist" — Santo Domingo wasn't named — "happened upon" LITTER, a line of headpieces and body jewelry that is primarily made from secondhand jewelry, "on a trip to San Fran a few months back, so she did the natural thing and coaxed the designers back to New York."
See What Lauren Santo Domingo Is Supposedly Obsessed With at Christian Cota Spring 2010

>> Lauren Santo Domingo has been turning it out front row this week — from Phi leather pants to Balmain sandals — aside from that front-row smoke break at Alexander Wang which caused a stir according to The Daily, but she was also back to style Christian Cota's presentation for Spring 2010.  While waiting in line to view the presentation, we overheard one of Cota's publicists talking about how Santo Domingo was "obsessed" with the jewelry she paired with Cota's cocktail dresses; Style.com also just published a piece about how Cota's "show stylist" — Santo Domingo wasn't named — "happened upon" LITTER, a line of headpieces and body jewelry that is primarily made from secondhand jewelry, "on a trip to San Fran a few months back, so she did the natural thing and coaxed the designers back to New York."

Marios Schwab

>> Halston Bides Time Until Marios Schwab With Perfume-Inspired Spring 2010 Collection — Marios Schwab's first Halston collection doesn't turn up until next season — for Fall 2010 — so the Halston design team of eight whipped up a collection inspired by the brand's perfume bottle (Olivier Theyskens used a similar idea with Nina Ricci's L’air du temps bottle when he was still at the label).

>> Halston Bides Time Until Marios Schwab With Perfume-Inspired Spring 2010 Collection — Marios Schwab's first Halston collection doesn't turn up until next season — for Fall 2010 — so the Halston design team of eight whipped up a collection inspired by the brand's perfume bottle (Olivier Theyskens used a similar idea with Nina Ricci's L’air du temps bottle when he was still at the label). Two of the fragrance's top notes, Lavender and Poppy, inspired the color palette, and Dree Hemingway popped by the presentation today. [Style.com, Heard on the Runway, J. Logan Horne Twitter]

Narciso Rodriguez

Narciso Rodriguez Loosens Up for Spring 2010, Signs Deal with eBay for Lower-Priced Line

>> Designers collectively seem to be over the ubiquitous body-con, hard-edged rock'n'roll look that has swept fashion for the past few seasons: Lorenzo Martone said Marc Jacobs is; Elise Overland told WWD: "I’m tired of that rock-star style — everyone else is doing it now, so I wanted to do something different"; and Joseph Altuzarra, who has focused on form-fitting silhouettes in the past, added some flounce this time around.
Narciso Rodriguez Loosens Up for Spring 2010, Signs Deal with eBay for Lower-Priced Line

>> Designers collectively seem to be over the ubiquitous body-con, hard-edged rock'n'roll look that has swept fashion for the past few seasons: Lorenzo Martone said Marc Jacobs is; Elise Overland told WWD: "I’m tired of that rock-star style — everyone else is doing it now, so I wanted to do something different"; and Joseph Altuzarra, who has focused on form-fitting silhouettes in the past, added some flounce this time around.

Narciso Rodriguez, who like Altuzarra typically goes with a lean look, also loosened up. A white linen and silk dress billowed around Monika "Jac" Jagaciak, even the nipped-in waists flared at the hips.  But the three stunners, which showed Narciso's experiment with volume at its best, were the last three finale gowns — one in black, one in white, one in "mercury" gray — knee-length in the front and parachute-like in the back as the model walked.

Also of note: pre-show, Anna Wintour was escorted backstage — not something that happens at every show; Narciso's close friends Ruben and Isabel Toledo sat front row, as did Tory Burch, whose show is tomorrow morning. Narciso has also just signed a deal with eBay to create a line — for Spring 2010 — with nothing over $350 (his runway designs are typically $1,800-plus), to be called "Narciso Rodriguez for eBay." A preview of his ideas for the line can be seen here.